Getting Started in Historical Miniatures Wargaming

Basing Figures

Bases may be metal, wood, plastic, or other materials. Metal bases are generally thinner than wood, and therefore less obtrusive for smaller scales like 15mm. Metal bases also offer the added advantage of being magnetic, which can be used to secure them in carrying cases that are lined with that flexible magnetic sheeting or tape you can find in department stores. Wooden bases, particularly the wood fiber bases with bevelled edges, look great for larger scales. Plastic card, cardboard, or other materials will work also.

Bases vary in size depending upon the scale and rules you are using and the type of stand. In 15mm scale, most stands will consist of multiple figures on a single base. For larger scales and for "skirmish" rules, a stand may consist of a single foot or mounted figure. For armies that fought in lines of battle (most armies from ancient to late-19th century), bases will be slightly rectangular so that figures can be mounted line-abreast. For armies that fought in unorganized formations (mobs, primitive natives, etc.) and for more modern armies, a square base may work better. A good choice for 15mm scale is 3/4"x 1" bases for infantry in a line or 1" x 1" for other infantry. On these sized stands, three 15mm figures will fit in loose order, or four to represent tighter formations such as those elite troops might maintain. If the army being modelled is highly trained and disciplined, mount the figures in a straight line, and use figures in similar or identical poses, equipment, and weapons. Less disciplined line troops will be in a more ragged line, and modern-era soldiers or mobs will generally be spread out in no particular order at all.

Gently pry the figure from the craft stick. Usually they will come off easily, but sometimes you will have to break the stick right under the glue, or use a dull knife or screwdriver to carefully work under the figure and pry it off.

Before getting out the CA ("super") glue, position the figures on the base the way you think you want them. Experiment with different arrangements. If you aren't placing your figures in a line (and even if you are), consider placing kneeling, lying, or firing figures toward the front of the base and reloading, marching, or advancing figures toward the back. Avoid unnatural situations like a firing figure pointing directly at another figure. Figures that are firing should face directly to the front, but other figures can be looking to one side or the other. Avoid putting two figures in identical poses on the same base unless you are portraying a very disciplined army in rigid formation, like British regulars or Roman legions. You may want to put your "best" work where it will be most visible, and bury the not-so-good figures in the middle or back of the stand.

When you are happy with the placement, you can squirt CA glue directly onto the base without bothering to remove the figures. The glue will normally wick under the figures enough to form a bond. Alternately, you can remove the figures, put several drops where each figure will be, and carefully replace the figures. The disadvantage of this method is that it is easy to knock over figures into the glue, which may show up later. If you plan to add larger chunks of rock or equipment, you may want to use the CA glue to glue these to the base now. Smaller items can be left until later. Let the glue set for several hours. If you are in a real hurry, you can try using a CA glue accelerant, but be careful not to get any on the figures (which is hard to do) because this can sometimes soften or discolor the paint. It is best to leave them overnight.

Bases should never be left bare, and painting them leaves them looking less realistic than they could be with a bit more work. Flocking is a catch-all term for any material that represents scale grass, sand, soil, leaves, forest floor, or whatever is appropriate to the figure being portrayed. Flocking can be a simple as a coating of "grass" or may include rocks, foliage, and discarded equipment or other debris. First, prepare your flocking material. Very good quality materials can be purchased at your local hobby story. The colors you pick will depend on the climate in which your army actually fought. I have standardized my basing to represent one of two worlds: A "Brownworld" scheme is used for armies from arid climate (Zulus, Boers, Arabs, etc.) and "Greenworld" is for everything else. Mixing together different shades of blended turf and static grass from Woodland Scenics produces very good results.

Alternately, you can use ingredients from your kitchen including spices (parsley, sage, oregano, basil, cornmeal, powdered cocoa). Except for larger scales (28mm or larger) you will probably want to pulverize spices in a mortar and pestle or whirl them in the blender when your wife isn't looking to reduce the size of the pieces. Store your flocking in a small plastic container. Be sure to mix enough for all of the figures you plan to base and flock in a single army, since you will want uniform results. A little goes a long way, however, and a Cool Whip container can hold a lifetime supply.

If you want, you may include rocks and small amounts of foliage on your flocked bases. Again, Woodland Scenics comes through with Small Tallus and Ballast for rocks. Their shredded-sponge-like Foliage product in various shades makes great bushes and scrub. Do not use sand, because it will be vastly out of scale, and kitty litter is out too because it can absorb water and swell unnaturally.

When you are ready to begin flocking, mix together white glue and brown acrylic paint in roughly equal amounts. With a small inexpensive brush, spread this mixture thickly over the base. Be sure to cover the base of the figures all the way up to the feet. Don't worry about getting small amounts of glue/paint mixture on the feet. At this point, add a few rocks and/or small amounts of foliage, pressing them firmly into the mixture. You may want to try adding battlefield debris like discarded equipment or rubble. Jerry cans, broken wagon wheels, oil drums, cannon balls, wooden crates, etc. add character and break up the visual monotony of an otherwise blank base.

Next, place the stand in a shallow container and generously sprinkle flocking material onto the wet glue/paint mixture. If you want, you can use different shades of flocking material in different places on the base. For example, sprinkle brown static grass in a few places before spreading green flocking overall. Remove the stand and tilt it sideways to dump any excess material. Flocking material will stick any place but rocks, foliage, or previously-placed flocking material. Let the glue and paint mixture dry overnight, then gently blow off any remaining loose flocking. Finally, seal the deal with a light coat of matte spray.

With a little practice you can produce a miniature diorama in scale.